آراءموضوعات رئيسية

ضد الذاكرة، في المدينة الظلامية!/ م. محفوظ ولد أحمد

هناك دول لها تاريخ وآثار عمرها آلاف السنين. وهناك دول لها معالم وملامح عمرها مئات السنين. وهناك أخرى لا تتجاوز ذاكرتها الحضارية العشرات من السنين… لكنها بعد 1000 سنة ستكون ذاكرة ألف عام!

وهناك دولة بلا ذاكرة، كأنما ولدت اليوم… بل إنها في الواقع تحارب الذاكرة؛ كأنها لم تولد بعد! تعيش عصر البداوة، بعد أن حوَّلت الأنظمةُ العسكرية الدولة فيها من مشروع “تمدينِ” المجتمع، إلى مسار عكسي يُحوِّل الدولة نفسَها إلى البداوة والقبلية والترحال والدوران…

إنها موريتانيا، موريتانيا فقط، موريتانيا الجديدة!!

إن الأنظمة العسكرية في هذه الدولة، رغم تعددها وطول مدتها والبحبوحة المالية التي توالت عليها، ظلت تناصب الثقافة والمعرفة العصرية العداء، وتمجد ـ بدون إدراك ولا قصد على الأرجح ـ الجهالةَ وأساليب وآليات البداوة، السلبية غالبا.

وقد تأثرت بهذا الجفاف الذهني قطاعات حيوية، مثل التعليم وغيره من وسائل المعرفة، بينما ظلت حصون العلم التقليدية (المحاظر) تتهاوى ويتوارى أعلامُها ويتناقص عطاؤها حتى نضبت تقريبا؛ وباتت المحظرة تُطلَق على أي خباء يجتمع فيه الصبيان أياما في السنة لحفظ سور قصيرة من القرآن الكريم على يد شيخ أو “متشايخ” مزجى البضاعة!

المكتبات العمومية معدومة (رغم حملة الكتاب السياسية الطائعية الهائلة التي لم تنتج أكثر من نشيد موسيقي محظور الآن!)، وحتى المكتبة الوطنية الوحيدة، التي ترجع إلى مرحلة الاستقلال (أو الاستعمار على اخلا المقاومين الجدد!) التي لا فرع لها، تعاني اليوم في حالة يرثى لها.

أما على صعيد المكتبات التجارية فإن الكتاب يخضع للضريبة الجمركية، والمكتبات التجارية تعاملها الضرائبُ الوزارية والبلدية كما تعامل محلات قطع الغيار وبيع الكماليات!

وأكثر من ذلك يخضع بيع الكتاب لضريبة القيمة المضافة (TVA) مثل سجائر “كونغرس” ودهائن “شارلي” وغيرها من مستحضرات “التجميل” المسرطنة…!

أما المسرح والسينما ووسائل التثقيف العصرية… فيسمح للمضحين من أجلها ـ وما أقلهم ـ باستخدام “برزة” مهجورة لا بناء فيها أطلقوا عليها، من باب التفاؤل، “فضاء التنوع الثقافي”، ولكنها مهددة بزحف “التوسع السوقي” الذي ابتلع بعض المدارس والمباني العتيقة في تلك المنطقة التي انفجرت منها هذه المدينة الظلامية (نواكشوط)!

وبينما نردد كالببغاء العجفاء شعارات الحضارة، و”الجمهورية الثالثة”… فإنه لا يتوفر ـ في طول بلادنا وعرضها ـ من المتاحف والآثار المحفوظة سوى تلك القاعة من دار الشباب التي جَمعت فيها حكومةُ الاستقلال “الاستعماري”  بعض المقتنيات التقليدية والآثار القليلة، باسم “المتحف الوطني”، وهي مقتنيات ظلت تنقص ويسوء حالها… مع الزمن والإهمال…

*

قبل عقدين أو أكثر قليلا، اقترحتُ على أحد خيرة وُلاة منطقة نواكشوط تدارك بعض بنايات “لـصر” القديمة، التي تتميز بعمارتها التقليدية ومواد بنائها المحلية وكانت أول المباني في هذه العاصمة؛ بأن تقتنيها الولاية أو تؤجرها وتحافظ عليها كـ”أثر عمراني تاريخي” في هذه المنطقة التي لم تشهد أي عمران ثابت قبل الاستقلال…

كان رد الوالي العسكري ـ رحمه الله ـ: إنها فكرة جيدة ولكن الناس لا يفهمونها، والمسؤولين لا يدركون أهميتها…!

وأعتقد أن ذلك المسؤول لطيبته كان يجاملني بدل إظهار السخرية من هذا الاقتراح “السخيف”…!

حسنا، بالأمس درتُ في أحياء “لـصر” القديمة، وهي من مواطن الشباب العزيزة، وأستطيع التأكيد أنه لم يعد يوجد هناك أي أثر لتلك العمارة القديمة؛ حتى “بوتيك مسجد بداه” الذي كان آخرها هُدم وبُني بالإسمنت الجديد!!

وفي “لــﮔصر” أيضا كان أول مطار مؤهل في هذه المنطقة (الثالث وطنيا بعد بيرام غرين ونواذيبو).

وعلى إثر بناء مطار “أم التونسي” الحديث، لم يُحوَّل المطار القديم، ذو المساحة الشاسعة، إلى مرفق عمومي كمطارٍ أو مدرج احتياطي، أو معارض، أو حدائق عمومية (موريتانيا هي البلد الوحيد في العالم الذي لا توجد به حديقة حيوانات واحدة؛ مع أنها أُنشئت نواتها في المعرض الوطني بنواكشوط، وفي “كانصادو” بنواذيبو إبان حكومة الاستقلال “الاستعماري”).

حتى مبنى الركاب القديم وبرج المراقبة المتواضع في هذا المطار الذي أسس في بداية الستينيات، اقتحمته جرافات التجارة المعادية للمدنية، رغم أن مساحته لو بقي قائما لا تزيد على مساحة “نيمرو” واحد من “النمروات” التي عصفت حُماها الهستيرية بذلك المطار. أما “عنـار” التوسعة الذي كان يقوم بدور مبنى الركاب في العقود الأخيرة فلا معنى تاريخيا ولا ثقافيا ولا عمرانيا… لبقائه، فضلا عن كونه أكبر مساحة من ذلك المبنى القديم الاصغر والأقوى.

**

وهنا، ورغم اليأس، نناشد المتصرفين في المطار القديم، عموميين وخصوصيين، أن يبقوا على أنقاض “برج” المطار القديم على الأقل، ويضمدوا إصاباته البالغة، إن لم يعيدوا له قبة قُنته البلورية… ولا أظنهم يفعلون ولا يهتمون!

 

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316 رأي على “ضد الذاكرة، في المدينة الظلامية!/ م. محفوظ ولد أحمد”

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